When people ask me what they absolutely mustn’t miss during their stay in Benifallet, the Coves Meravelles always top my list. These spectacular limestone caves, carved over millennia by the slow, patient drip of water laden with carbonates, are nothing short of magical. I’ve been up there countless times over the years, and each visit still manages to take my breath away.
The caves sit high up in the Serra de Cardó, about three kilometres outside the village. The drive up alone is worth the trip, with those stunning views across the Ebro Valley unfolding at every bend. On a clear day, you can see for miles—the river winding through the landscape like a silver ribbon, the patchwork of orange orchards and olive groves, and the distant mountains fading into the horizon.
A Gift from Nature—and a Handful of Brave Cavers
The story of how these caves came to be discovered is rather wonderful. Back on 19th March 1968—over 55 years ago now—a group of intrepid cavers from the Grup d’Investigacions Espeleològiques (GIE) of the Centre Excursionista de Gràcia were exploring the area. They’d come to the Serra de Cardó on a campaign to study caves that had been known locally for ages as the Coves de l’Aumidiella.
I can only imagine the excitement when they realised what they’d stumbled upon. Behind what appeared to be just another small cave entrance lay an extraordinary underground world of stunning geological formations. Few people at the time could have guessed that nature had gifted this tiny village with one of its greatest treasures. Following close behind the speleologists were a group of Benifallet residents who didn’t want to miss the chance to see what lay hidden inside their mountain. You can just picture them, can’t you? Torches in hand, peering into the darkness, trying to take in the magnitude of what they were seeing.
It wasn’t until 1st November 1993 that a section of the Cova Meravelles was properly opened to the public, complete with lighting and signposted routes. And what a brilliant job they’ve done of it.
Two Caves, One Extraordinary Tour
Today, two caves are open to visitors: the Cova Meravelles and the Cova del Dos. Both can be explored in a single 45-minute guided tour that takes you through around 200 metres of accessible passages. Don’t let the modest distance fool you—those 200 metres are absolutely packed with geological wonders that’ll have you craning your neck and gasping at every turn.
The Cova Meravelles
Discovered in 1968, this cave is the star of the show, and it’s easy to see why it’s considered remarkable even by the standards of Spain’s many show caves. The tourist route includes three main chambers: the Sala dels Llapis (Pencils Room), the Sala de l’Amfiteatre (Amphitheatre Room), and the Sala de Música (Music Hall).
What makes the Cova Meravelles particularly special is the sheer quantity and quality of its formations, especially the excèntriques—those bizarre, gravity-defying formations that seem to grow in all directions at once, completely ignoring the normal rules of how water should drip. They’re utterly mesmerising. The slow drip of infiltrating water, laden with dissolved carbonates, has created fascinating formations, sometimes quite fantastical, where your imagination can run absolutely wild discovering mythical creatures and impossible shapes.
You’ll see spectacular stalactites hanging from the ceiling like frozen waterfalls, stalagmites rising from the floor to meet them, enormous columns where the two have joined over thousands of years, flowstone cascading down walls, delicate straw stalactites as thin as drinking straws, and gours—those lovely terraced pools that look like something from a fairy tale. The formations here include everything a cave enthusiast could hope for, and then some.
The Sala de Música is particularly enchanting. I won’t spoil the surprise, but let’s just say there are some wonderful surprises waiting that bring the cave to life in unexpected ways. Your imagination will spot elephants, cows, and even a rhinoceros amongst the otherworldly shapes—it’s like nature’s own sculpture garden, only far more impressive than anything human hands could create.
The Cova del Dos
This cave gets its name—Cave of the Two—from its two entrance openings, and whilst it might be slightly less flamboyant than its sister cave, it holds tremendous historical significance. Archaeological excavations here have uncovered finds from the Late Neolithic period (around 2800-1500 BC), including pottery fragments, flint tools, and three burials.
Inside, you’ll see reproductions of a bell beaker vessel and an amphora, along with information about the spear points and flint implements found here. It’s quite moving, really, to think that people walked through these same passages thousands of years ago, seeking shelter, burying their dead, going about their prehistoric lives. The cave served as a refuge during different periods, including—more recently—during the Spanish Civil War.
Echoes of the Spanish Civil War
Speaking of the war, the caves played a poignant role during the Battle of the Ebro in 1938. That brutal conflict—the longest and bloodiest battle of the entire Spanish Civil War—raged across this region for 115 days between July and November. The republican civilian population of Benifallet, along with people from surrounding areas, took shelter in these caves to escape the relentless bombing and shelling.
I’ve spoken to elderly villagers who remember their parents and grandparents telling stories of those terrifying months spent hiding in the mountain. Some soldiers used the caves as well, desperately seeking cover from Franco’s devastating aerial bombardments and artillery fire. The Balneari de Cardó, the old spa building further up the mountain, also served as a makeshift hospital during this period.
The Battle of the Ebro was catastrophic for the Republicans, with around 130,000 casualties on both sides. When it ended, Catalonia fell shortly afterwards, and within months the war itself was over. Walking through these caves today, knowing the fear and suffering these walls once witnessed, adds a sobering dimension to their natural beauty.
Recognition and Awards
The importance of the Coves Meravelles—both geological and historical—has been increasingly recognised in recent years. In 2021, they were declared a Cultural Property of Local Interest by the Baix Ebre County Council, and the same year they were included in the Census of Responsible Cultural Spaces by the Department of Culture of the Generalitat of Catalonia. That second recognition particularly highlights the caves’ commitment to sustainable cultural management and protection of both natural and historical heritage.
Then in 2022 came a truly brilliant achievement: the Jury of the III Prize for Excellence in Spanish Tourist Caves and Mines awarded that edition’s prize, ex aequo, to the Coves Meravelles. The jury specifically praised the extraordinary effort made by Benifallet’s town council to highlight and value the caves’ historical, cultural, and natural resources. They particularly noted how successfully the caves have been connected with the River Ebro and the wider tourist offer of the area, creating new products and boosting sustainable tourism.
For such a small village to achieve this level of recognition is quite remarkable, and it’s a testament to how seriously the local community takes the stewardship of this natural treasure.
A Biosphere Reserve
Here’s something else rather special: the entire Terres de l’Ebre region was declared a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve on 28th May 2013, and the Coves Meravelles are included in that designation. It’s a recognition of the outstanding natural environment we’re lucky enough to call home, and a commitment to preserving it for future generations whilst allowing responsible tourism to flourish.
The Caves Festival
Every year on 1st May, the area around the caves comes alive with the Fiesta de las Cuevas—a wonderful celebration that draws locals and visitors alike. We’re talking proper Catalan festivities here: local music fills the air, people dance, and—most importantly—there’s an abundance of food. Paella or another local delicacy, bread, dessert, fruit, and unlimited wine flow freely. The locals bring their own additional provisions as well, creating an impromptu feast that goes on for hours.
Best of all, lunch is provided free of charge to everyone who attends! Sometimes there’s even a free dinner thrown in, featuring local specialities like garlic bread, butifarra sausages, and other Catalan delights. It’s one of those wonderfully generous community celebrations that epitomise the spirit of Catalonia. And of course, your festival ticket includes a guided tour of the caves—because what better way to work off all that paella than by exploring underground wonders?
If your visit to Benifallet happens to coincide with 1st May, don’t even think about missing this festival. It’s an experience you won’t forget.
Planning Your Visit
The caves are remarkably accessible and well set up for visitors, with good parking and easy access (though do wear sensible shoes—it’s still a cave, after all). There’s a lovely bar and restaurant at the entrance where you can enjoy refreshments before or after your tour, and the terrace offers those spectacular views I mentioned earlier. On a warm day, sitting there with a cold beer and looking out over the valley is pretty close to perfect.
Opening Times:
The caves operate on seasonal schedules, so it’s essential to book ahead:
- January and February: Open weekends only
- March, April, May, September, and October: Open Wednesday through Sunday
- June, July, August, and Semana Santa: Open daily
Tour Times:
- Mornings: 10:15, 11:15, 12:15, and 13:15
- Afternoons: 16:15, 17:15, 18:15, and 19:15 (the later times are only available during spring/summer)
Tours are conducted in either Catalan or Spanish, depending on the time slot, but written information in other languages is available. The tours last approximately 45 minutes and are led by knowledgeable guides who bring the caves to life with fascinating facts about the geology, history, and archaeology.
Prices:
- Adults: €8
- Seniors, students, and groups (25+ people): €7
- Children aged 5-13: €6
- Children under 5: Free
Do book ahead, especially during high season and weekends, as tour groups are kept deliberately small to protect the cave environment. You can contact them at covesmeravelles@benifallet.cat or ring +34 977 267 800 (caves) or +34 977 462 334 (tourist office).
More Than Just a Pretty Cave
What I love about the Coves Meravelles is how they represent so many layers of history and geology all in one extraordinary package. They’re a window into prehistoric times through the Neolithic remains. They’re a masterclass in geological processes that have been occurring over millions of years. They’re a memorial to the darkest days of the Spanish Civil War. And they’re a shining example of how a small community can protect and share its natural heritage responsibly.
The recognition from UNESCO, the Generalitat, and the Spanish tourist caves association isn’t just about pretty rock formations—it’s about the whole package: the sustainable management, the connection to local history and culture, the educational value, and the commitment to preserving this underground world whilst allowing people to experience its wonders.
A Few Practical Tips
The temperature inside the caves remains constant year-round at around 15-17°C (59-63°F), which means you’ll want to bring a light jacket or jumper even on the hottest summer day. The humidity is high, which is what creates all those gorgeous formations, but can make it feel a bit chilly if you’re just in shorts and a t-shirt.
Wear comfortable walking shoes with good grip—the paths are well-maintained but can be slippery in places. The route is accessible for most fitness levels, though there are steps and some uneven surfaces, so it may not be suitable for those with serious mobility issues or wheelchair users.
Photography is generally allowed, though flash photography might be restricted in certain areas to preserve the delicate formations. Check with your guide at the start of the tour.
Why You Mustn’t Miss This
Look, I know I’m biased—I’ve lived here for two decades and genuinely adore this area. But I promise you, the Coves Meravelles are something truly special. They combine natural beauty, fascinating geology, prehistoric archaeology, and poignant twentieth-century history all in one extraordinary underground world. Whether you’re a dedicated caver, a history buff, a geology enthusiast, or simply someone who appreciates the wonders of nature, you’ll find something to captivate you here.
And after your tour, why not pop down to one of the village bars for a well-earned drink? You can regale the locals with your impressions of the caves whilst enjoying a cold caña and perhaps some tapas. They’ll be chuffed to bits that you’ve visited their beloved Coves Meravelles, and you’ll likely come away with recommendations for other hidden gems in the area.
The caves are Benifallet’s greatest natural treasure, and they’re right here on your doorstep when you stay at our Riverside Finca. It would be criminal to come all this way and not take the 45 minutes to explore them. Trust me on this one—you’ll be talking about this visit for years to come.
Ready to explore Benifallet and the Coves Meravelles? Stay at our Riverside Finca and discover why this corner of Catalonia captures hearts. Contact us today to check availability or if you’d like recommendations for combining a cave visit with fishing, hiking, or other activities in the area. We’re always happy to share our local knowledge!
